In the Sanskrit dialect, Dhaulagiri means the "White Mountain". At 8,167m., it is the seventh highest mountain in the world. After the first recognition by the French in 1950 and the multiple attempts to reach the ridge of the western peak, taking advantage of a natural feature of the sloep called "pear", the mountain was finally climbed through the northeast ridge. This effort was not carried out without controversy at the time, as the basic Swiss mission used a light aircraft to supply food and equipment to the Northwest, at 5,700 m.

An astonishing number of different routes have already been climbed on the mountain slopes, some of which are quite difficult and most have not been repeated yet. The first climb to Dhaulagiri took place on 13 May 1950 by the Swiss Diemberger and A. Schelbert. Already since 1949, after the aerial photography of the mountain was achieved, many missions tried to conquer it. More than ten years later, in May 1960, the men of a Swiss team headed by Max Aizelin were the first to hit the top. The members of the Greek mission followed the route of the Swiss thirty-eight years later, however they were not meant to complete the effort. Besides, in these thirty eight years, Dhaulagiri became the permanent home for close to forty-seven climbers. The Greek team, which began on March 13, 1998, encountered a great storm and reached the base camp fourteen days later. From there until the point of the tragic accident, another twenty-five days of laborious work had taken place.

In the Sanskrit dialect, Dhaulagiri means the "White Mountain". At 8,167m., it is the seventh highest mountain in the world. After the first recognition by the French in 1950 and the multiple attempts to reach the ridge of the western peak, taking advantage of a natural feature of the sloep called "pear", the mountain was finally climbed through the northeast ridge. This effort was not carried out without controversy at the time, as the basic Swiss mission used a light aircraft to supply food and equipment to the Northwest, at 5,700 m.

An astonishing number of different routes have already been climbed on the mountain slopes, some of which are quite difficult and most have not been repeated yet. The first climb to Dhaulagiri took place on 13 May 1950 by the Swiss Diemberger and A. Schelbert. Already since 1949, after the aerial photography of the mountain was achieved, many missions tried to conquer it. More than ten years later, in May 1960, the men of a Swiss team headed by Max Aizelin were the first to hit the top. The members of the Greek mission followed the route of the Swiss thirty-eight years later, however they were not meant to complete the effort. Besides, in these thirty eight years, Dhaulagiri became the permanent home for close to forty-seven climbers. The Greek team, which began on March 13, 1998, encountered a great storm and reached the base camp fourteen days later. From there until the point of the tragic accident, another twenty-five days of laborious work had taken place.

 

Everyday updates

 

Yesterday a service was held in memory of Nikos Papandreou, in the church of Agioi Anargyroi, in the place where he lived.

The group remains in Nepal in order to settle all matters with the Nepalese Government and is finally due to return on the day originally scheduled: the 18th of May.

4.05.98     

How can we describe this... This tragic end of an expedition, which, in a 100 m. would be victorious... A rope that ended a little sooner, an effort to use another's rope, a wrong step and finally the end, in a a place that Nikos chose himself, after all... God rest his soul...

The group returns within a week. They are already in Katmandou since Sunday, in order to prepare all needed papers.

We will revert with more details, and the transcripts of the messages....

2.05.98     
Message of Antonis Sykaris from Dhualagiri (03.04.98), during a connection with ΑΝΤ1 channel (transcript of the leader's message) 

The group attempts its second and - we all wish - final ascend to the top...
On Tuesday (28.04) they attempted for the first time, but had to stop due to constant snow fall. On Thursday the first group attempted for the second time and would sleep in Camp 4, while group 2 (Sykaris, Routsias, Bougiouklou, Voutyropoulos) starts for the final ascend today.

25.04.98     

The group already prepared Camp 4 (7.450 m. - see The climbing plan). Kostas Routsias, Antonis Sykaris and Alexandros Bougiouklou remained temporarily back to Base Camp. On Tuesday, 28.4, there is a possibility that they all attempt an ascend to the top.

19.04.98     

The group already prepared Camp 3 (6.450 m. - see The climbing plan). Kostas Routsias and George Voutyropoulos had to return to Base Camp since Thursday because of a strong headache. On Saturday the rest came back as well, in order to celebrate the Orthodox Easter in Base Camp. On Monday they will start to ascend till 7.450 m, in order to prepare Camp 4.

15.04.98

The temperature now should be approx. -12--13^o, I haven't checked this morning yet, but it should be round this. The way to reach the point we are now is through the glacier; there is much soft snow, since snow fall is continuous, it didn't stop for a minute, a fact that makes our attempts even more difficult. Another problem is the fear of the mountain diseases, which can affect at any minute any member of our group.

The greek group will attempt to reach the top of Dhualagiri (8.167 m.) without the use of oxygen masks - which means that our effort is even more difficult, since oxygen concentration at this altitude is very low. I hope that 15 days from now, we will have reached the top of the mountain, with the help of God.

13.04.98     

The group spent the night at 5.300 m., where they already prepared Camp 1 (see The climbing plan). They wish to have all the Camps ready by Sunday or Monday. Then they will descend to Base Camp, retire for a week, and start the final ascent to the top.

12.04.98     

The group started the ascent to the top today....
The connection with ANT1 channel was not effected on Saturday after all and is re-programmed for Wednesday.
The weather has been wonderful these 3 last days. The group decided to shorten to 8 days the creation of camps up to 7.500 m. (see Climbing plan), if conditions allow it.
French climber Chantal Maudit proceeds with the Greek group from now on!

09.04.98     

The group reached Base Camp at last, on Tuesday, 7.4.98! They are very happy with the fact that they acclimatized much better than they planned to. Right now, they are waiting for the end of the gear and equipment transportation, in order to proceed. Today, 9.4.98, they haven't been able to move a bit, due to the intense snowfall. But, they have company: a spanish group of mountaineers, trying a similar project, as well as the well known French climber Chantal Maudit, who has already 5 over-8.000 m. peaks in her portfolio. Maudit travels alone, together with 27 porters. Being a doctor, she studies the symptoms of similar projects to the human organism.
On Saturday we will have the new audio messsage of the group, again from a connection with ANT1 channel.

05.04.98     
Message of Antonis Sykaris from Dhualagiri (03.04.98), during a connection with ΑΝΤ1 channel

The group reached 4.800 m, on Thursday, 02.04.97. The weather remains very bad (transcript of the leader's message); as a result, 60 of the 70 porters (sherpas) abandonned them. The group had to carry all the stuff on their own for 5 days, ascending and descending between 4.500 m. and 2.800 m. The group had to split, Andonis Sykaris and George Voutyropoulos staying behind to take care of the gear. Their only advantage has been the acclimatisation. On Sunday, they arrived to Hidden Valley, 5.050 μ. On Thursday, 09.04.98, they program to be finally in Base Camp, in order to prepare for the ascent.

The communication problem was due to the snow, which ....covered the barels containing the telephone device as well as the tents, during one night - the group had to find its way out of the tents and start searching for the barels. According to scientists, this weather turmoil is due to El nino, which starts to fade in this area.

The telephone device is a satellite Inmarsat mini m portable, weighing 2,4 Kgr. The communication is effected via Ior, the geostatic satellite over the Indian Ocean, which comminicates with Greece through Thermopylae. Battery charging is effected through a solar portable panel.

03.04.98

The temperature is -10--11^o and it's 8 o'clock in the evening. We are in our tents, inside our sleeping bags, waiting for the sunrise, in order to start our action. We expect to be able to start ascending tomorrow, and stepwise, in about a month, organise 4 camps higher than Base Camp, up to an altitude of 7.450 m. We will then return to Base Camp and will try our final ascent to the top.

We had a very bad time for at least 12-13 days trying to get from 2.500 m. to Base Camp, this is 4.700 m. There, we faced the rough weather: We have been blocked up during our ascent to Base Camp for 4 days, due to constant snowing. Our tents were covered by snow, so were our gear and equipment, all packed in barels. The snow reached 1,10 m.

We are a greek national team, we represent all Greek mountaineers, we will try to achieve the best, which is of course to be able to summit. We are very well, although the weather conditions do not allow us to proceed right away. With patience and persistence we wait for the weather to get better; then, we'll find the right moment to proceed to the top.

27.03.98     

The group reached Yak Kharka (3.850 m.) on Thursday, where they stayed overnight. Yesterday, sunday, or today, they should be in Base Camp. Communication has been extremely difficult due to weather conditions both in Greece and in Nepal.

25.03.98     

The group is still in Marpha waiting for the porters, in order to proceed. The weather is so bad, that they might have to go by helicopter to Base Camp. The weather is expected to improve in 3 days.

22.03.98     

The group is already in Marpha waiting for the porters, in order to proceed. They face an extremely bad weather: the snow is so much, that their moves and movements are hindered. An 84-year-old man in Marpha was telling them characteristically that he could not remember so much snow in his whole life

18.03.98     

The group left this morning, at 06:00 local Nepal time for Pokhara. They left by plane, though the 77 porters carrying 1950 Kg of equipment and food will walk there. This will cause the group to remain in Pokhara for 5 more days, acclimatising and learning the roundabouts. Then they will all start for the intermediate destination, Base Camp.

17.03.98     

During a morning telephone connection, we learned that the group faces a problem on the issue of collecting and trasporting the pre-calculated food. This would mean probably a 10-day delay in the whole scheduled program. We'll let you know tonight or tomorrow, when we know more about it.

 

Maps

     

    

 

Photos

  

Videos from Nikos Papandreou's small digital camera:

Video 1

Video 2

Video 3

Video 4